Central Sierra: El Dorado County - Master Gardener - Gardening Articles

What exactly are pollinators and why do we need them?  

You may often hear that pollinators are important and we should support and protect them. 

Pollinators play a crucial role in flowering plant reproduction and in the production of most fruits and vegetables. Most plants require assistance to produce seeds and fruit. About 80% of all flowering plants and over three-quarters of the staple crop plants that feed humans rely on animal pollinators. The process of pollination happens when pollen moves between flowers; movement of pollen can be performed by animals, insects, and wind.

The absence of pollinators can cause issues such as reduction in quality and quantity of your garden’s production. For example, fruits and vegetables may become misshapen, fall short of the usual size, or fail to fully develop. Pollination plays a critical role in the reproductive process of plants, and without it, flowers may not be fertilized properly. Insufficient pollination can also lead to a lower yield.

The most common pollinators that come to mind are typically bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. There are other pollinators that are less known such as bats, beetles, birds, flies, moths, wasps, and other animals. These pollinators all play a critical role in sustaining our ecosystem by helping our plants reproduce. 

Encourage, support, and protect pollinators 

Ways that you can support and welcome pollinators to your garden: 

Plant flowers in your vegetable garden. 

Mix flowering plants throughout your vegetable garden. This not only looks beautiful but also attracts helpful animals and insects. Plant flowers that bloom from early spring through fall to provide pollinators with food throughout their active seasons. Select plants that are pollinator friendly, such as native plants to your area. 

Some pollinators, namely honeybees, are more attracted to larger blocks of the same flower. Try to plant at least three of the same plant together rather than single plants scattered around. A single honeybee can visit as many as 5,000 flowers in a single day. 

Reduce the use of pesticides. 

Pesticides may harm beneficial insects along with pests. For effective control while protecting pollinators follow Integrated Pest Management (IPM) principles by identifying pests correctly and using natural control methods first and choosing the mildest treatment options when necessary. Learn more about environmentally friendly pest management at the UC IPM website: Search for the UC Statewide IPM Program (UC IPM).

Provide shelter and water.

Create pollinator friendly gardens by leaving some bare soil for ground nesting bees, keep small brush piles for shelter, add shallow water dishes with stones for insects to drink from. 

Supporting our pollinators can be simple and fun! 

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Jennifer Weber originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in July 2026. 

Any gardening questions can be submitted to the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County through their online survey tool. 

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Nearly 200 succulents are California Natives 

Succulents are plants with thick and fleshy leaves and stems that thicken and engorge to retain water. There are 10,000 types of succulents. A quick search for succulents on Calscape, the California Native Plant Society website, yields 196 results. 

The advantages to succulents in your house or yard include their attractive and versatile colors, textures, shapes and forms, ability to thrive in hot weather with limited water and little care, and their longevity. Also, their tough, prickly, and fuzzy leaves are unappealing to deer and other garden pests. 

Popular spring and summer succulents are Echeveria, Sempervivum, Agave, and Sedum. In winter, Cotyledon, Kalanchoe, and Aloe make lovely houseplants. My Sedum stonecrop blooms a light pink, and my Sedum neon sends up a stalk of showy pink. Ice plant flowers in brilliant purple, yellow, and magenta. All succulents do go dormant, and you can see the new growth when they break dormancy. During my succulents’ dormancy, I either prune just the leaves that have shriveled and died back or take them all the way down to the soil. 

Succulents flourish in temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate temperatures down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but you should protect them from frost by covering them with frost cloth or bringing them indoors. Succulents can stand temperatures up to 100 degrees and take full sun. They are, however, happier planted on the east side of the house or under a tree or shrub for partial shade. In the lower foothills, I have Sedum adolphii and Stonecrop in pots on the ground where they get afternoon shade. Succulent leaves store water, so if the leaves or the stems shrivel, water them. Water them also if you see white, beige or black spots on leaves; they are sunburned. To protect them in elevated temperatures, you could move your succulents to more shade or cover them with shade cloth. 

Let your succulents dry out between waterings to prevent root rot.   

Succulents can live in any type of soil that is not overly rich. Even though their roots are shallow, they still need sandy, well-draining, and permeable soil. They prefer being crowded, but you should thin their roots periodically. 

Succulents are easy to propagate. Separate the pups or offsets that grow at the base or the stem, or the plantlets that grow on the leaves of the Kalanchoe and gently push them in soil. You can also propagate by taking stem cuttings. Let them callous over for about a week and then insert them in soil. They will form roots in about two weeks. Prune overgrown succulent stems and leaves. 

You can fertilize your succulents once or twice during the growing season or more often if you see the need. Too much nitrogen in the fertilizer softens the succulents’ tissues that makes them susceptible to rot.

This warm summer in the foothills, enjoy low-maintenance succulents that will make your garden both colorful and interesting. 

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Kit Smith originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in July 2026.

We have a beautiful succulent garden at the Sherwood Demonstration Garden in Placerville, and during Open Garden hours, a volunteer docent is available to show you around. 

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Ladybugs are not all the same. 

There are about 200 species of lady beetles in California. It is important to remember that while all lady beetle species have a similar shape, the color and patterns may differ. Some have spots, others don’t, some are red, and some are grayish. Lady beetles and their offspring, called larvae, feast on aphids, mites, and other insect pests. More information can be found by searching for Lady Beetles / Home and Landscape / UC Statewide IPM Program (UC IPM)

Because lady beetle species vary so widely, their diets differ, too. For example, the Ashy Grey lady beetle, Olla v-nigrum, and the twenty-spotted lady beetle, Psyllobora vigintimaculata, do not eat aphids or mites. Instead, they are found on plants with powdery mildew, where they feed on mycelia, spores, and spore-producing structures. Another species, the twice-stabbed lady beetle, Chilocorus orbus, is black with two red spots. It eats mealybugs and aphids but prefers soft-bodied scales. The Mealybug Destroyer lady beetle, Cryptolaemus montrouzieri, feeds on mealybugs and other soft-bodied insects that produce waxy egg sacs.

Different looks at different stages 

I don’t know about you, but when I see a scary looking bug, I immediately want to get rid of it! Then my Master Gardener training kicks in to determine if it is an insect pest or a beneficial predator of those darn pests. Learning the stages of an insect’s life prevents unintended harm. The lady beetle’s life cycle starts with an egg. A lady beetle’s eggs are football shaped, yellow or white, and laid on end either singularly or in rows on the leaves of a pest-infested plant. When the eggs hatch the ladybug goes through several larval stages. A lady beetle larva is alligator shaped with prominent legs. Depending on the species, the color of the larvae differs. In the next stage, it pupates and eventually becomes a beautiful and beneficial lady beetle. 

Feed these beneficial insects 

The lady beetle eats thousands of insect pests throughout its growth stages! The most common lady beetle in California is the convergent lady beetle, Hippodamia convergens. Its larvae are black with some reddish-orange coloring on the sides. Once the larva pupates, it begins to look more like a ladybug until it matures to adulthood.

Creating a garden with lady beetles involves providing food for them and their offspring. If food is available, ladybugs will come. Do not use broad-spectrum or systemic insecticides because it will kill the lady beetles and other beneficial insects along with the insect pests. If there is no food for the beneficial predators, they will find another garden. Attracting lady beetles and other beneficial predators is easy. 

• Plant insectary plants to attract and provide food and shelter for adult beneficial insects throughout the year. Search for Insectary Plants / UC Statewide IPM Program (UC IPM)
• Reduce dustiness by rinsing off smaller plants. Too much dust can inhibit the activities of beneficial insects. 
• Finally, control ants in your garden because they will protect aphids and other insects that produce honeydew. Search IPM UCANR ant-management. 

This article written by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Virginia Tahmahkera originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in July 2026. 

If you have any pest identification questions, your UC Master Gardeners are here to help! Take a photo and upload it with your contact and garden information to out Ask a Master Gardener survey. A volunteer will contact you with information. 

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Understand the five basic needs of every houseplant 

Gardeners like the color green. Green gardens filled with flowers and vegetables, or splashes of green houseplants can bring tranquility to a hectic day.

Most houseplants have a tropical heritage and thrive when provided the right location and care. Selecting the right plant for your home depends upon plant needs. Houseplants might be small when purchased, but like babies they will continue to grow. Locate a plant in an area spacious enough for it to grow and mature. Each houseplant has five basic needs, and providing correct lighting, temperature, humidity, water, and fertilization will keep it healthy.

Correct lighting for houseplants is very important.  

Plant species have different light requirements. Light ranges are low, medium, high, and direct. A houseplant with low light requirement should be 15 to 20 feet away from a window yet another plant might tolerate direct window exposure. In the home, daylight changes seasonally and at times a plant location might need to be adjusted. 

Houseplants prefer a consistent temperature.  

Adjusting the heater or AC provides us comfort. Plant variety determines temperature range tolerance. Cool ranges from 40 to 50 F, intermediate from 60 to 70 F, and warm 75 F or higher.  Houseplants should not be located near an air vent because of their sensitivity to temperature fluctuations.

Low humidity levels can harm tropical houseplants. 

Heating and cooling can decrease the home humidity level. A few adjustments can be made to provide houseplants with additional humidity. Placing plants on a tray with pebbles and water can increase humidity. Grouping plants together keeps moisture level a bit higher. Finally, periodically spraying plants with a fine water mist adds moisture. Cacti and succulents are good houseplant choices for very dry areas.

Houseplant water needs vary. 

Too much or too little water can kill plants or cause erratic growth. Adhering to a set watering schedule is difficult due to variations of plant needs. A good rule to follow is water a plant when one inch of soil at the top of the pot dries. Don’t allow water to pool in the saucer. Keep plant “feet” dry, otherwise the plant might succumb to root rot.

Houseplants need periodic fertilization to remain healthy.  

Soil nutrients are lost from potted plants quicker than in ground plants. Use fertilizers made for indoor plants and always follow label directions. Fertilize plants with new growth, don’t fertilize when plant is resting in winter. Periodic deep watering of plants will help wash away salt deposits built up from fertilizers. Place the pot in the sink and allow water to gently flow through the soil. 

Houseplants are not immune to dust in the home. Leaves should be carefully washed a few times each year by spraying them with water. African violets can’t tolerate wet leaves and need to be gently dusted with a soft brush. Check your plants for pests and disease regularly. Remove dead leaves and dried flowers. Some houseplants are toxic to pets, and the internet is a great tool to use for checking the toxicity of a specific houseplant. 

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Anne Bettencourt originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in June 2026. 

How to distinguish between the three types of weeds on your property  

Isn’t it funny when you look at children that you have not seen in a while, you usually say, “These kids have grown like weeds.” You don’t say that they have grown like a plant. You and I did not make that saying up; the truth is weeds do grow fast!

But to someone clover is a weed, and to another person it is beneficial. Loving a weed can also be in the eye of the beholder. A weed is defined as a plant that is not valued where it is growing, and is usually a vigorous grower, especially one that tends to overgrow or choke out more desirable plants.

There are three types of weeds; native, non-native, and invasive, also known as noxious.

What are native weeds? 

Native weeds are those that are native to their existing ecosystem. These native weeds are indigenous plants that have adapted, are highly aggressive, and often appear in disturbed sites or gardens. California Poppy, Eschsholzia californica, is our state flower and easily self-sows like a weed, but it provides early-season nectar for native bees, and its deep taproots help break up heavy or compacted soil. 

What are non-native weeds? 

Non-native weeds were brought from a different ecosystem by accident or intentionally, and they are not usually harmful to the environment, humans, or livestock. Non-native weeds that are beneficial include the Common Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale, which was introduced from Europe and differs from the native California Dandelion, Taraxacum californicum which resides in the San Bernardino Mountains. The Common Dandelion has a vibrant yellow blossom and might seem like a garden invader, but it’s a nutritional superhero. Every part of a dandelion can be eaten, and it has vitamins A, C, and K. The leaves make a fantastic addition to salads, offering a slightly bitter, earthy flavor. Plus, the roots can be roasted for a healthy coffee substitute.

Identify and eliminate invasive weeds

Invasive weed species are a subset of non-native species that cause harm to the environment, economy, or human health. They compete with native species for resources, disrupt ecosystems, and lead to ecological imbalances. The introduction of invasive species often results in negative impacts on local biodiversity.

One invasive weed is the Yellow Star Thistle, Centaurea solstitialis originally from the Mediterranean region; highly aggressive, it degrades and contaminates crops and grazing land, and is toxic to horses. Another noxious weed is the Stinkwort, Dittrichia graveolens. which is also from the Mediterranean, Southern Europe, and Northern Africa. It has only been in California since 1984, and since then, has spread throughout the state. Its ability to adapt to overgrazed pastures and roadsides means it takes over for native plants which local insects and animals depend on.

Before you head off to battle the weeds, it is advantageous to know the type of weed you are going after because it may be a friend and not a foe. 

UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County are here to help you identify the weeds on your property! Take a picture and complete our Ask a Master Gardener survey! Or take a clipping, seal it up tight in a plastic baggie, and bring it in to our Placerville office during our office hours. 

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This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Diane Lehr originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in June 2026. 

Lawn Alternatives 

There is much discussion these days on eliminating grass lawns, and unless your lawn gets a lot of use for playing by kids and pets, it is something to consider. 

Grass lawns are heavy consumers of water and fertilizer and often require pesticides and fungicides to keep them looking their best. They are also maintenance intensive, requiring mowing and edging many times throughout the year which produce air and noise pollution. Lawns compact the soil underneath, hindering water penetration and causing runoff, wasting water. Additionally, lawns can be detrimental for bordering trees, because lawns can get very hot and require more water that could flood and damage the roots of those trees. 

For a different look in your garden and to cut down on watering, fertilizer use, and maintenance, think of converting to a no-lawn yard. 

Fire resistance should be part of your alternative garden plan. You might prefer a yard that appeals to your senses of smell and sight, with its aroma, appearance, and color. A meadow vista encourages pollination with plants that attract pollinators like birds, bees, butterflies and bats. You could select native plants that have naturally evolved in your region, soil, climate and ecosystem. With their natural adaptations they are more likely to survive and thrive with only seasonal rainfall and little tending and cultivating. A sustainable garden promotes the maintenance and conservation of natural resources for ecological balance. 

To achieve any of your lawn alternative goals, you will have to choose plants that will substitute for the lawn. Be knowledgeable about which plants have the best chance of thriving in your garden. The right plant must be in the right place. To achieve that, you must learn about your yard, like its sun and shade exposure, climate, natural irrigation and soil, then match plants to the details, keeping in mind the plants’ water needs, growth characteristics, maintenance requirements and root system.

Mixed annual and perennial flowers with native grasses are a beautiful substitute. If the area gets less than six hours of sun per day, select plants labeled for part sun or shade. Annual wildflowers usually need to be reseeded the first few years, but some, like Bachelor’s Buttons, Centaurea cyanus, and Cosmos, Cosmos species, self-sow and rebloom each year.

Break up the previously expansive lawn area with planting boxes or beds and small patio areas joined by paths. Fill the beds with layers of plants, keeping low growing plants along the border and graduating to taller plants in the center. Consider adding a water feature like a small pond, bird bath or fountain. Make your area a retreat by adding a bench for seating.

Think about using groundcovers for places where foot traffic is limited or discouraged. There are varieties of textures, colors and heights. 

If you prefer a low-to-the-ground look, there are many choices. Sedum, Dead Nettle, Lamium species, and Creeping Thyme, Thymus serpyllum, are three. The thyme requires 70% - 80% less water than your lawn did and also produces a fragrant flower. Roman chamomile, Chamaemelum nobile, is another aromatic plant that is a soft and dense low grower.

Dwarf Carpet of Stars, Ruschia nana, is a thick succulent groundcover, which blooms with small white and pink striped flowers in late winter to early spring. Nana suppresses weed germination and can take full sun while needing 75% less water than a lawn. Another low growing succulent is the Ice Plant Ruschia pulvinaris that has blue-green leaves and pink flowers. 

Karupia is a fast-growing thick groundcover that attracts pollinators with tiny flowers. Sea thrift, Armeria maritima, Mugwort, Artemesia species, and Bearberry Cotoneaster, Cotoneaster dammeri, are groundcovers that are drought tolerant and fire resistant. Yarrow, Achillea species, Coyote brush, Baccharis pilularis, and Lamb’s-ear, Stachys byzantina, should also be on your possible plants list.

For a natural meadow, there are deer resistant grasses, such as Feather Reed Grass, Calamagrostis x acutiflora, and Blue Grama, Bouteloua gracilis, grasses. Both have dense clumps and resist the spread of fire. There is also the very durable UC Verde® Buffalo Grass, which is a native plant bred for California. It requires little water and goes dormant in a drought. 

Add trees and shrubs that do not need a lot of water once established. Flourishing woody plants need to be irrigated only once or twice during the growing season. However, all plants will need more water if they are exposed to extreme heat and wind. As another alternative to lawn, look at shrubs like Ceanothus and Rockrose, Cistus species. Plumbago, Rosemary, Salvia Rosmarinus, and Spirea are other options. Also consider Western redbud, Cercis occidentalis, California flannelbush, Fremontodendron californicum, and Lavender, Lavandula species.

Keep your no-lawn landscape well mulched to preserve moisture in the soil. This approach promotes sustainable gardening practices that reduce the use of water, fertilizer and pesticides.

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Kit Smith first appeared in the Mountain Democrat in May 2026. 

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Stay healthy with activity in the garden 

If you enjoy gardening, it is great to know that the work you are doing for your plants is helping you to stay healthy. According to Dr. Steven Blair, a noted professor of Kinesiology, just a half hour of gardening, five days a week, lowers risk of heart disease and some forms of cancer, and improves your strength and balance to counter aging changes. Or you can combine your garden work into several hours on the weekend, as long as your total is 150 minutes per week. The calories you burn will help you maintain a healthy weight, and for many of us, the enjoyment of playing in the dirt is a way to keep your mental health in good shape as well. 

Many of our garden chores are comparable to biking, hiking, or brisk walking. Someone of average stride length will take about 4,000 steps in an hour while walking about while working in the garden. Typical tasks such as weeding and raking can burn up to 300 calories an hour, while more strenuous activities like hoeing and pushing a wheelbarrow can burn up to 400 calories per hour, the equivalent of jogging at 5 mph or moderate cycling. If you are digging, raking, or pushing a hand mower, you are improving your cardiovascular fitness, and if you are lifting pots or soil, digging with a spade, or spreading mulch, you are building bone and muscle. Even the lighter tasks like pruning can utilize our fine motor skills and keep our arm and hand muscles toned. 

It is important to realize that we need to warm up our bodies for gardening, just like with other strenuous activities. Ten minutes of walking or carrying tools out at the beginning of the workday can loosen up the body in preparation for working. And after a lot of leaning or lifting it is especially important to stretch out our muscles. Make sure to stretch again at the end of your chores. Tips on avoiding strain include rotating tasks every 15 minutes, monitoring your posture, and lifting with your legs rather than your back. 

The University of Arkansas Extension offers suggested stretches as part of their AgrAbility program that include shoulder shrugs, wrist and forearm stretches, back and hip stretches, and other exercises that you can do in just 12 minutes. They note that just 4 minutes of stretching before, during, and after your garden activities will keep you less tight and prevent stiffness.

Seniors in particular should pay attention to good body mechanics while gardening. Make sure to use a garden cart or wheelbarrow to carry heavy items and tools. Use knee pads or a gardening seat to take pressure off of your knees and, to limit back strain, kneel only on one knee with the other foot on the ground in front of you. Work in shorter windows of time with frequent breaks, especially as you get into your 80s, when one to two hours per session should be enough. Set a timer!

Gardening is so rewarding that it’s nice to know that it is good for you, too! 

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Kitty Stewart originally appeared in the summer issue of Around Here magazine.

Bring any of your gardening questions to the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County. Submit a survey and the Master Gardener volunteers will get back to you during their office hours! 

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Native plants are adapted to the dry climate, support ecosystem's biodiversity. 

Spring is a good time to evaluate your landscape and make potential changes to decrease your water use in 2026. A good starting point is to incorporate a California native plant or two into the garden. Many native plants can survive with minimal supplemental water once they have become established. 

California includes many different native plant communities. 

Native plants come from across the state and are adapted to varying habitat conditions that include coastal, inland, foothill, and desert. The natives for ornamental plantings in El Dorado County are best if of local origin that have adapted to our soil and microclimate conditions.  

Native plants from appropriate plant communities can mix with other plants from similar climates with like water requirements. Natives should not be planted near a lawn, or with plants that have high water needs. Very good drainage and careful watering the first year, along with planting a bit above grade so water percolates away from the crown of the plant help ensure success. Native plants should go in native soil, be watered deeply and infrequently once they are established. 

Using natives that are adapted to our area will also attract local wildlife. 

The local native plants are food sources for wildlife as well as shelter from weather and predators and offer nesting sites. At the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County's Sherwood Demonstration Garden, home to sixteen different types of gardens, the winter native garden is home to a variety of resident and migrating bird species. Winter blooming plants provide nectar and pollen for residents like hummingbirds and native bees. Two native shrubs that offer berries for birds are Toyon, Heteromeles arbutifolia, and Oregon Grape, Berberis aquifolium. Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis, offers seeds and spectacular spring flowers. Native oaks provide acorns and host a wide variety of insects eaten by birds. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red flowers of California Fuchsia, Epilobium canum, and the lovely blooms of the Red Flowering Currant, Ribes sanguineum. 

Another excellent Natives Garden can be found within the U.C. Davis Arboretum. The Mary Wattis Brown Garden of California Natives features an extensive collection of native plants, a natives meadow and native grass landscapes. 

Look for inspiration in native gardens around you, and then make some additions to your own landscape. 

This article, by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Debbie Hagar, originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in April, 2026

Visit the Natives Garden at the Sherwood Demonstration Garden, 6699 Campus Dr. Placerville, CA. Open hours are season-dependent, and can be found on this page of our website. 

If you would like to speak with a UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County, please reach out! 

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