Central Sierra: El Dorado County | Master Gardener | Gardening Articles

Tips and tricks for dealing with the wide variety of lavender 

There is a plant that could be in your garden right now that has endured the test of time -- the lovely Lavender, Lavandula spp. It dates back 2500 years to the time of the ancient Egyptians and has been celebrated for its healing and relaxing properties, its contributions to the cosmetic and perfume industries, and its many culinary uses. It is a standout in the garden that does well in our area, with beautiful grey-green foliage displayed on a compact plant covered with stunning spikes of aromatic flowers. Lavender has a long bloom time from spring through fall and is a favorite of pollinators. It is pest free, drought tolerant, deer resistant, and very easy to grow. What’s not to love?

Growing conditions for lavender 

While lavenders need relatively little care after planting, the right growing conditions are very important. Select a planting spot with six or more hours of sun per day; too little sun limits flower production and causes leggy growth. Soil should be gritty and drain well to avoid fungal root and crown rot problems. Amend soil used for backfilling with sand or organic matter to improve drainage. Planting high, one inch above the soil line, will help water drain away from the plant’s center. In areas with heavy soil, consider creating planting mounds above the soil line.

Lavender also grows well in raised planters and containers. Proper spacing based on plant size allows good air circulation and helps prevent fungal problems. Always consult plant tags for best recommendations. Apply two-three inches of mulch such as pea gravel or decomposed granite, leaving several inches of bare ground around the plant’s stems.

Take care not to overwater. Use drip irrigation to keep foliage dry and allow the soil to dry before watering. Lavender is very drought tolerant once established, but new plants need regular watering during the first year. Apply a balanced fertilizer to new plantings at half strength; established plants do not need fertilizing. 

Pruning lavender is required to help maintain a compact plant shape and discourage woody growth. Remove faded flowers as the bloom cycle ends to encourage reblooming and pinch foliage to encourage branching. In the fall, cut the green plant material back one-third to two-thirds, depending on variety, leaving a tidy mound of foliage to overwinter. Do not prune into the wood below the green plant material. This dry wood will not generate new growth.

Lavenders vary greatly in plant size, flower color and shape, foliage color and leaf shape/texture. English lavenders, Lavandula angustifolia, are generally under two feet tall and known for their beautiful flowers, sweet fragrance, and narrow leaf shape. The newer lavender hybrids, Lavandula x. intermedia, are crosses between English lavender and broader leafed varieties, with large highly fragrant flowers on plants that are up to three feet tall. Spanish lavender, Lavandula stoechas, blooms early on plants 18-24’ tall and is known for its showy flower bracts. 

The biggest problem may be which beauties to plant in your garden. Lavender has enduring appeal and is worthy of your time, effort, and affection.

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Donna Marshall originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in May 2026. 

Trying to decide which lavender to plant in your garden? Direct any El Dorado County garden question to the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County!

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Protect your environment from invasive plants 

Pests in the garden are not always creepy crawlers, they can also be plants, and some are very attractive. However, attractiveness does not always mean good, and you may be surprised to learn that some plants in your landscape should not be present at all. The California Invasive Plant Council, or Cal-IPC, is a nonprofit organization whose mission is to protect California's environment and economy from invasive plants. It was established in 1992 to address environmental threats from invasive plants, which it defines as plants not native to an environment that, once introduced, establish quickly, reproduce freely, and spread widely. Its website, cal-ipc.org, has a very comprehensive inventory of plants that are already considered to be invasive or are to be watched because of their potential for being invasive. 

Learn before you plant 

I think everyone is aware that Scotch Broom, Cytisus scoparius, and Yellow Starthistle, Centaurea solstitialis, are highly invasive plants, as is Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus altissima. But did you also know that English Ivy, Hedera helix, and Mexican Feather Grass, Nassella tenuissima, are on Cal-IPC's list of invasive plants? I frequently see Mexican Feather Grass in various landscapes, but this is an extremely vigorous plant and will spread quickly out of its designated place in a garden by freely reseeding just about everywhere. English Ivy is also still frequently planted, but this vigorous groundcover will grow up walls and trees, ruining building exteriors and choking the life out of trees. It is also a notorious hideout for snakes and rodents. Pampas Grass, Cortaderia selloana, is another no-no to plant because of its very vigorous growth habit and wind-driven seed dispersal of up to 20 miles from the parent plant.

Another very good resource for learning about invasive plants and noxious weeds can be found at ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74139.html/ There are good alternatives to invasive plants and some of these can be found at plantright.org.  

What can an individual do to help decrease the number of invasive plants? First, educate yourself by researching a plant's characteristics before you put it in your garden. Then, share information about invasive plants with family, friends, and neighbors. Finally, if you see an invasive plant being offered at a nursery or other businesses where plants are sold, politely talk to the personnel who do the buying; they may not be aware that a plant is on the invasive list, and I bet would welcome the information. We can all do a small part to help decrease the number of these invasive plants.       

This article, written by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Sue McDavid, originally appeared in Village Life in spring of 2026. 

Are you curious about the "pest" status of a plant in your garden? Reach out to the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County to answer your gardening questions. 

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Native plants are adapted to the dry climate, support ecosystem's biodiversity. 

Spring is a good time to evaluate your landscape and make potential changes to decrease your water use in 2026. A good starting point is to incorporate a California native plant or two into the garden. Many native plants can survive with minimal supplemental water once they have become established. 

California includes many different native plant communities. 

Native plants come from across the state and are adapted to varying habitat conditions that include coastal, inland, foothill, and desert. The natives for ornamental plantings in El Dorado County are best if of local origin that have adapted to our soil and microclimate conditions.  

Native plants from appropriate plant communities can mix with other plants from similar climates with like water requirements. Natives should not be planted near a lawn, or with plants that have high water needs. Very good drainage and careful watering the first year, along with planting a bit above grade so water percolates away from the crown of the plant help ensure success. Native plants should go in native soil, be watered deeply and infrequently once they are established. 

Using natives that are adapted to our area will also attract local wildlife. 

The local native plants are food sources for wildlife as well as shelter from weather and predators and offer nesting sites. At the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County's Sherwood Demonstration Garden, home to sixteen different types of gardens, the winter native garden is home to a variety of resident and migrating bird species. Winter blooming plants provide nectar and pollen for residents like hummingbirds and native bees. Two native shrubs that offer berries for birds are Toyon, Heteromeles arbutifolia, and Oregon Grape, Berberis aquifolium. Western Redbud, Cercis occidentalis, offers seeds and spectacular spring flowers. Native oaks provide acorns and host a wide variety of insects eaten by birds. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red flowers of California Fuchsia, Epilobium canum, and the lovely blooms of the Red Flowering Currant, Ribes sanguineum. 

Another excellent Natives Garden can be found within the U.C. Davis Arboretum. The Mary Wattis Brown Garden of California Natives features an extensive collection of native plants, a natives meadow and native grass landscapes. 

Look for inspiration in native gardens around you, and then make some additions to your own landscape. 

This article, by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Debbie Hagar, originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in April, 2026

Visit the Natives Garden at the Sherwood Demonstration Garden, 6699 Campus Dr. Placerville, CA. Open hours are season-dependent, and can be found on this page of our website. 

If you would like to speak with a UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County, please reach out! 

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Imagination gardens are a fun way to plant container gardens 

Almost all these tiny plants do best in indirect light and in moderate temperatures; in other words, indoors in the summer and winter. They may outgrow a small container but can be divided or pinched back to stay in scale. Do keep their feet damp but not wet, except the air plants, which prefer only misting or a weekly rinse. Most of these plants will live 3-4 years, the exception is the gloxinia which last only one season but may regrow after dying back. Most will need to be divided after a while, so you can use the cuttings for new plantings, or change out the look in your garden for variety.

Most of these will do well in shallow soil, 3-8 inches deep. It should be well-drained, in a saucer, so you can water frequently in warm weather but not allow the roots to be waterlogged. Use indoor potting soil, or a succulent potting mix if you will be planting echeveria and aloes. 

Do not use “planting mix,” “garden soil,” or “top soil” as your primary soil component. These are too heavy or otherwise unsuited as a container medium. You can mix these with vermiculite or other soil amendments, but it is easier just to buy the "potting mix." Do not use gravel in the bottom- it aggravates drainage issues. 

Consistent, sufficient watering is important for containers because they can dry out quickly. Check containers daily. Stick your finger into the top inch of soil. If it feels damp there is no immediate need for water. If it feels dry, water until some runs out the bottom of the container. Note: If a container dries out completely and the soil becomes hydrophobic, water may run through the container without actually moistening the soil. You may need to soak the entire pot.

Succulents  

• Echeveria minima, echeveria elegans – white, or echeveria elora – pink
• Small aloes – some stay quite tiny
• Kalanchoe, stays small for months, can be pinched back

Mosses  

• Pillow, mood, java, and feather moss are smaller varieties
• Scotch moss Sagina Subulata Aurea, has tiny white flowers

Ferns 

• Button ferns or asplenium (spleenwort ferns)
• Maidenhair is slow growing but will outgrow a small container
• Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Fluffy Ruffles’

Air plants 

• Tillandsia spp. - silver or gray-leaved varieties tolerate drier conditions than green varieties, and some are colorful-such as Tillandsia maxima with red leaves

Small shade-plants 

• Hostas
• Oregano, and Cuban oregano -Plectranthus amboinicusis
• Small leaf varieties of mint
• Miniature ivy

Tiny flowers

• Sinningia pusilla (and other miniature gloxinias) grow just 3 inches tall. Will die back before they regrow and bloom again.
• Ageratum has small species that top out at 6-8 inches, with blue fluffy flowers

Have questions about building your imagination garden or anything else home garden related? Reach out to the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County by phone, 530-621-5512, or with the link to our Ask a Master Gardener survey. 

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The versatile loofah (or luffa) is edible, but famous as a natural sponge  

Luffa, often spelled loofah, Luffa aegyptiaca, is a vining gourd in the cucumber family. It can be used as a vegetable when it is young and the cucumber-like fruit is only six inches or less. It is rich in nutrients and high in fiber, often used in stir-fries and other Asian cuisine. Once it has matured, it dries into a fibrous, stringy interior, and is then used as a biodegradable sponge for the kitchen or bath.

Seeds can be started indoors four to eight weeks prior to last frost. Luffa has a long growing season of 100 to 180 days. For best results, soak seeds for 24 hours to help with germination. Seeds need consistent warmth to germinate, between 75-90 degrees F. A heat mat works well for this. Seeds can also be direct sown in warm soil, usually around mid-May in many areas. You should start your seeds indoors soon for harvest in September. 

Once the danger of frost has passed, seedlings can be hardened off by leaving them outdoors for several hours each day. 

The tricks for planting and growing luffa

Plant luffa in well drained fertile soil rich in organic matter. Ideal soil is neutral to slightly alkaline with high moisture and good drainage. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Approximately five gallons of water per plant per week is a good guide. Fertilize using balanced fertilizer when flowers appear, as you would with cucumbers. 

Small seedlings grow slowly, while the roots become strong, and luffas prefer warm dry climates. Luffa grows best in full sun; plants produce flowers in two months after planting. Flowers are bright yellow.

Pruning is a must to keep the vines healthy. The vines will grow everywhere if not kept under control. If grown in optimal conditions, gardeners may get between 10-40 gourds per plant! Each luffa can produce between 100-300 seeds on average. However, for every three seeds you plant, only two will grow, even for professional growers. You can grow luffa in a 25-to-30-gallon pot or large grow bag with a trellis of some sort to support growth. 

Harvesting for sponges is the fun part 

Harvesting luffa for sponges is the fun rewarding part of growing this plant. Gourds should be ready to harvest in the fall. To use as kitchen or bath sponges, the luffa should be dried out, be yellow to brown in color, and light weight. If you shake them, you can hear the seeds rattling inside. You can shake out any seeds to keep for your spring planting and share some with friends.

If it is close to fall frosts, you can harvest them and allow them to dry inside your home, just watch for signs of mold.  Peel off the outer brittle brown skin, revealing fibrous, spongy material inside. Rinse and wash the luffa then let it dry completely, then cut the luffa into your desired sizes. Use your sponges as cleaning tools, and of course for your relaxing baths. Happy Planting!

This article by UC Master Gardener Judy Hobbs originally appeared in a March 2026 issue of the Mountain Democrat. 

If you would like to discuss luffas or any other plant in your home garden, you can Ask a Master Gardener for help. Submit your question through our online survey tool. 

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Scents of Spring Shrubs 

Ahhhh…Spring! Our California foothills spring flowering shrubs are not only stunning to look at but also provide alluring fragrances. In planning for the future, here are some of the most fragrant early blooming spring shrubs that you can add to your garden, which provide the promise that winter will soon be ending.

Let’s start with common Lilacs, Syringa vulgaris. There is nothing quite like the air being perfumed by these springtime favorites. They are also loved for their toughness and reliability. Once established, these shrubs can live for over 100 years. The floral stems are great for cutting and bringing inside to enjoy. Pollinators, such as butterflies, seek out lilacs. The blooms usually come in a fluffy variety of purple colors, pale to very dark. There are also varieties of white, cream, and pink.

Even though it is not in the same botanical family as common Lilacs, you may want to consider getting California Wild Lilac, Ceanothus spp. A native, drought tolerant, fragrant, perennial shrub, it can also act as a ground cover. This beloved native shrub turns the California hillsides blue. They do well in infertile conditions, have natural nitrogen fixing abilities and do not need feeding. They appreciate our Mediterranean climate. Bees and butterflies love them!

Who could resist the early blooms and fragrance of the Sweet Box plant, Sarcococca? Its tiny white flowers, with vanilla scent, fills the air for weeks in February and March. Dark green leafed, this evergreen ornamental shrub is outstanding. It thrives in partial shade, is tolerant of tree roots, low irrigation, and does well in a large container. Another plus, deer don’t seem to like really them.

The intoxicating scent of Winter Daphne, Daphne odora, will make guests at your spring garden say, “What smells so good?” Clusters of the scented pink and white flowers open gradually, but when they do, you immediately know Daphne is blooming. The fragrance is exquisite. Good drainage is key in successfully growing this shrub. Add ample compost to lighten the soil, so it will drain quickly. Ideal in large pots, situate it in partial shade near your door, so you can enjoy its delightful floral perfume as you are leaving or coming home.

Once established, the luscious four-petaled, citrus scented white blooms of the native California Mock Orange, Philadelphus lewisii, can beautifully frame a garden gate or trellis. This native plant was discovered and collected in 1806 by Lewis & Clark during their famous overland expedition to the West. It is a tough, drought tolerant shrub that needs little supplemental water. The early season nectar supports pollinators including bees, birds, and insects. The arching woody branches provide nesting cover for birds. Easy to grow, plant in full or partial sun, using average garden soil. 

If one of your gardening goals is to experience a scent-sational, springtime yard, consider adding some of these uniquely fragrant shrubs. The moment you get a delightful whiff, you’ll wonder how you ever lived without them.

This article by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Pauline Atkins originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in March 2026. 

Technology for the Home Gardener 

Technology can help the home gardener in myriad ways. Technology applies scientific knowledge for practical purposes to solve problems and make life better. Technology is a tool for the garden and gardeners. We can use it to complete routine tasks or tackle more complicated matters, all in an effort to accomplish our gardening goals. 

Technology for the garden much of the time comes in the form of an app, short for computer application, which is software designed to perform specific functions. Apps are downloaded to computers and other electronic devices. Many apps use artificial intelligence (AI), a system that performs tasks without significant human effort or oversight. 

Smart weather stations give us timely, detailed information about our weather by tracking temperature, barometric pressure, wind strength and direction, rainfall, and UV rays. Originally, SMART stood for Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology, but today SMART is also a broad range of intelligence and advanced technology.  

A comprehensive smart garden integrates technology to streamline gardening processes to make them more efficient and sustainable. 

There are solar-powered smart irrigation systems that utilize our garden’s current weather data, using past microclimate temperatures and humidity. There are weather-based sensors that can help us apply proper irrigation to prevent over- and under-watering. The sensors are automated and can be adjusted for a plant’s age, the current weather and the condition of the soil. There is an app that tracks sunlight. 

Healthy garden soil is essential and there is technology that can determine soil texture. With that information, we can learn about our soil’s water drainage and retention, workability, and nutrient retention. Also available are soil monitors that can measure soil moisture content, pH, temperature, and natural nutrients. 

With a detection app, we can know when a critter visits our garden. Early detection may prevent damage. There are apps to determine whether it is a pest or a beneficial. If it is a pest, we can utilize a pest management app and / or visit the UC Master Gardeners of El Dorado County website to learn about research-based management, control, and treatment for natural solutions to create a more sustainable garden. 

There are many plant recognition apps that operate from our photos of a plant’s leaf or flower or a succulent, cactus, or mushroom. Utilizing again our own photos, there are apps to identify and diagnose plant needs, problems, and diseases. 

Living in the foothills, we might want to use an app that will alert us of an upcoming temperature drop. We can plan our garden with a planning app to place the right plant in the right place, that will strengthen the likelihood of a thriving garden. There is technology for all facets of composting. Robots can assist in producing and weeding vegetable gardens and can mow our lawn. 

We would be wise to use the tools of technology that were developed specifically to help us have beautiful and healthy gardens.  

This article, written by UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County Kit Smith, originally appeared in the February, 2026 issue of Around Here Magazine. 

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An Invitation to Garden Beauty: A Rose Pruning Primer  

It’s that pruning time of year! The period from Christmas until early March (depending on elevation) is the best time to get started. Your bushes will look more attractive and produce larger flowers with good pruning, and you can shape them to the proper size for your garden. The removal of dead and diseased canes also improves rose bush health by stimulating the production of new growth with the emergence of vigorous new canes from its base. Even if your bushes still have leaves and flowers, their removal now is a chance to wipe away last year’s problems and set a new path for the coming season.

The best tools required for rose pruning 

Use sharp bypass hand pruners for most cuts, and long-handled bypass loppers for thicker canes and hard-to-reach places. A fine-toothed curved saw will remove the thickest canes. A pair of leather gloves reaching to the elbows protects from thorn pricks.

The parts of the rose that should be pruned away 

Completely remove all dead canes (grayish or brown in color and shriveled looking) and canes that have been less productive with a clean cut close to where they emerge from the crown at the base of the bush. Completely remove diseased and damaged canes or cut them back to healthy wood at least one inch below the affected area so the inner wood (pith) is white. Remove all suckers coming from the root stock beneath the bush. Select the strongest three to six outer canes (smooth and green or bronze in color) to become the foundation for next year’s growth. They will ideally be arranged in a vase-like shape around the open center of the bush when pruning is finished. 

Remove with a clean cut at the parent stem any growth that is smaller than a pencil and which crosses or rubs other growth. Direct new growth away from the center by making cuts at a 45-degree angle, one-quarter inch above a bud that faces upward and to the outside of the bush. Buds can be found at leaf attachments; some will look like red dots or green smiles, while others might already be pushing leaf growth out. Remove all growth headed toward the plant’s center to discourage fungal diseases by improving sunlight access and air flow. Shorten the remaining canes on established hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora varieties by one-third to one-half in length. Shrub and English roses should be given a lighter pruning, with 6-8 healthy canes left on the bush.

Post-pruning tasks for healthy, beautiful roses

After pruning, remove and dispose of all remaining leaves, along with pruned cuttings, fallen leaves, and debris collected from under the bush – no composting. Make a heavy application of dormant spray or horticultural oil on a day where there is no wind and there will be no wet weather for at least 24 hours. Thoroughly spray the bush and the ground beneath it to suffocate any remaining insect eggs or fungal spores. Apply a layer of mulch 2-3 inches deep, pulled away from the base of the plant. Fertilize about four weeks after pruning; water deeply after application. 

Enjoy a wonderful rose year!

Have a rose pruning question? Ask a Master Gardener in El Dorado County by clicking the button to our information survey below or call 530-621-5512 and leave us a message. A volunteer will get back to you during our office hours. 

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This article, written by Donna Marshall, UC Master Gardener of El Dorado County, originally appeared in the Mountain Democrat in January 2026.